My New Norm; what I've grown accustomed to (and what I haven't)

     It's hard to decide what to write about as our time here narrows down to the last 3 months. You've seen and heard a lot about what we do for work here.   But since many of the highlights of June, didn't take place in Costa Rica, I thought I'd write about other things.
     First an update on our whereabouts.  I am back in San Marcos, Francis is still in Washington, DC.  He is being very well taken care of by the Peace Corps Medical Office, feeling good, getting examined from head to toe and leery of anything involving needles, but managing well.  He is making the most of his time while near so many wonderful monuments, museums and family.  Francis grew up in Baltimore and has been spending some time with cousins as well as a 99 year old uncle.  I got to enjoy much of this during my 8 day stay in DC, in addition to a visit from Emilee and longtime friend, Eileen.  They both came to DC for a weekend and we had a marvelous time together.  I got spoiled and wish I could have stayed!  That kind of sums up where I'm at mentally right now, but as always, practicing being in the here and now.  We're hoping and expecting that Francis will return here within the next 2 weeks, más o menos.

Francis and Emilee at the Marine Corps War Memorial in Arlington National Cemetery, where Francis has a great uncle buried.

Eileen and I at the Crab Cakes Bar

Sunset over the Potomac

      This week is the beginning of a 2 week vacation for all schools in CR; they call it "quince dias".  So while I spent the beginning and end of June working in the school and liceo, I am going to spend 4 days this week with my PCV group, Tico 28, at La Playa Santa Teresa and then the following week at our COS (Close of Service) Conference.  We will have about 2 months of service to go after that.

     Being back in the states for the week gave me another taste of life after Peace Corps.  It didn't feel like as much of a culture shock going as much as it did coming back here again.  It has given me much food for thought about differences in cultures and how I've adapted to things here.

Let's start with what I appreciate about Costa Rica that's different from the states:
   
     We live in a small town here.  I have grown so accustomed to living here, I forget it's such a small town. When the boys from Asheville were here, some were talking about how neat it was that the kids could walk to school, whereas in the states, they have to drive everywhere they go. The last time I climbed up to the cross and looked down at the town, it was such a great feeling to realize that we walked all the way up there from our house!  And going the other direction we can walk into town.  Case in point: in the States; we tend to drive everywhere we go, but we don't always have to.  Francis and I have put on a lot of miles walking around town, and now when someone offers us a ride, we usually decline, because we've grown so accustomed to walking that we prefer it.  Here's to hoping we continue walking a lot and don't hop in our car for a quick trip to the store.  I really do like small town living, so I guess I'll have to figure out a way to make Ft. Collins feel small again.

Hiking with other PCVs : Francis, Rachel, Nicky and Donny.

     When talking to my brother the other day on the phone, he asked about the rooster he heard crowing in the background.  I have grown so accustomed to it, I hadn't even noticed.  But I do notice it at 4 am when it wakes me up every morning.  As I've mentioned before, we live on a fairly busy street, and I am especially aware of the big trucks that have to downshift and grind their way up the hill.  But for now, it's quieter since coffee picking season is over.  It's amazing how we all adapt to the sounds around us.

 There's a church down the street whose visitors sing without accompanying music, and not exactly on key.  I can't say that I missed them when I was in DC.  On the other hand, no matter where I am, I tend to gravitate to quiet places, trails through the trees or along rivers or streams.  I will miss the many chirping birds that I hear every morning, but not the barking dogs outside my door.  The heavy rains certainly make memorable sounds on a tin roof, but it's the rain itself that is something you have to learn to live with whether you like it or not.  Like the changing seasons of Colorado, the rainy season here makes one appreciate the dryness of "summer".

Francis was well versed in the use of umbrellas when he arrived to DC.

     The plentitude of insects has been something that I have not adapted to well.  I've gotten used to catching spiders, cockroaches, roly polies and such, and tossing them out the door, but I'm not comfortable with crawling into bed or walking around barefoot for fear of meetings with unseen insects. Ticos are accustomed to having little gnats flying around their food in the kitchen, and for that reason, I don't keep food out. Traditionally, Ticos tend to keep food sitting out on the stove, in the microwave or toaster oven.  I keep a tube of rice at the bottom of our front door; not to keep the cold out, but to keep the insects out.  The joke's probably only on me, because with all of the spaces between the ceiling and the walls, there's plenty of other places for them to enter, but it makes me feel better anyway.

I've been told this "colorful" spider, which I found racing across our floor recently,  is probably toxic.   Any arachnoid scientists out there who can identify this?  It was only about the size of a nickel.

    I've grown accustomed to living in a small space.  It's so easy to sweep the entire apartment every morning (takes 5 minutes) and to reach for pots, pans and the sink while cooking.  I can open the refrigerator and get out some nuts or chocolate from my cozy little living room throne (mi trono)!  It's my desk, meditation spot, tv chair and sewing seat!  Sounds good huh?  Well, it's a little different story when Francis and I are BOTH here.  And it's a little challenging to entertain, though we have had 3 for dinner, seated on every chair in the house!  I'm sure it will only make me appreciate our spacious home when we leave and maybe on cleaning days too!  In the words of Ticos, who always use "ito, or isimo" on the ends of words to emphasize the smallness or grandness of things; we have un apartamento pequenito.

My arm's not long enough to see it all, but you get the idea!

    Seeing all the green around me is a site I have become accustomed to, and continue to appreciate every time I look outside!  There are blooming orchids, bromeliads and many other flowering plants right outside our door.  I so enjoy having fresh fruits and vegetables like bananas, lemons, papaya, mango, zuchini and tomatoes available to us year round!  

Freshly cut from Vilma's banana trees out back.

     I've become accustomed to eating much more simply and with less variety than we have in the states.  Besides savings for the budget, it makes shopping simpler as well, since there's not so much variety to choose from.  Americans tend to spend much more time on both shopping for and preparing extravagant foods than Ticos.  I think it's a product of both our economic level as well as our consumerism culture.  Maybe it's also a small town vs. big town difference that I'll have to pay more attention to.
   

Carmen cooking beans on the wood stove (estufa de leña).  Ticos LOVE their frijoles y arroz!

     While all Costa Ricans haven't embraced keeping the environment clean (like picking up trash), they have embraced the 2 new R's in the Reduce, Reuse, Recycle practice; and that's Repair and Refuse (to buy new).  Costa Ricans are very good at using things until they fall apart and repairing them when they do. In addition, they use recycled materials a lot more for many household items and demonstrate a lot of creativity in doing so!

Holding up the water pipes for the washing machine w/ an inventive cord system of Vilma's!

    Again, it's probably a matter of economics, but since we've lived here, and don't have any extravagant needs, we've also practiced repairing things much more than we have in the past.  In the states, our practice is to throw it away and buy a new one.  Of course, the former is better for the environment and I hope to spend more time getting creative in the process!

I may have chosen a little longer lasting solution to this broken trash basket for the long term, but duct tape and cardboard  work just fine for the short term!

     Something else I've become accustomed to, but not something I've enjoyed, is the frequent feeling of not knowing what's going on, due to the language barrier.  This is referred to as "Arroz con mango",  a saying used when a situation is confusing.  My auditory processor has slowed down enough so that it makes it quite difficult to understand what people are saying much of the time.  This has caused us to stop short of knowing what's going on many occasions over our entire stay here. We've both become quite used to that feeling, but it's always been an uncomfortable feeling.    While one of the reasons I joined PC was to learn Spanish, it's been a challenge much greater than I ever thought it would be (like the Ticos say about learning English: "cuesta mucho" (literally, it costs a lot).  And while I plan to continue my studies of the language,  I look forward to having a little more than a clue about what's going on around me and being able to interact on a deeper level when I return.

At least Yuey and I understand each other.

     It could be that it's not just a language issue causing the confusion as I mentioned above,  but a greater cultural misunderstanding or difference.  For example, a quality in many Ticos that, I've learned to accept but not embrace quite yet is the "pura vida" attitude, which serves Ticos very well in many ways, maybe the most important ways. They are a very tolerant people, patient and forgiving. This is probably the opposite of many Americans, with our highly demanding and efficiency minded workplace expectations.  This creeps into our personal, family and everyday lives and leaves us stressed and sick.  Those values have been so engrained in me, that it's been hard to adapt and accept what I see as inefficiencies in the systems where I work here.  It's worth the thought though,  that maybe this "Pura Vida" is saving Costa Ricans from a lot of misery.  Maybe it's something the US could adopt from Costa Rica, that would improve our society.  If we could trade a bit of efficiency or productivity for more tolerance, patience and forgiveness, it might be worth it!

     Costa Rica is one of the highest rated "developing" countries, according to where PCVs are placed. There are many similarities of culture to that of the US.  Many Ticos whom I've met, want so much to travel to if not live in the states.  Their tv shows and  movies are Spanish dubbed US shows.  Walmart is prevalent all over CR (though it's called Pali in the smaller towns, like ours).  Clothes are very western and stores called "Ropa Americana" (with used clothes from the states and Canada) are everywhere.  The US has influenced CR and other countries all over the world in many practices, so the differences aren't always so striking.  But Ticos have a LOT of pride in their country and this is very evident at their many festivals and parades, with old fashioned oxcarts pulling agricultural products, school and municipal bands playing national anthems and folkloric dancers wearing beautiful traditional costumes.

Tico Folkloric Pride

Tico Diversity Pride: Peace Corps led the Diversity Parade last week!

I hope that as you celebrate the 4th of July, you appreciate the rich cultural influences that make the US the beautifully rich, diverse country that it is, that makes it so wonderful.   Happy 4th!

I was invited to lunch w/ friends Carmen and Diego, so I made my traditional 4th of July Jello, to meet PC Goal #2: share the US culture with those from your host country!

 

Life: Una Montaña Rusa (A Roller Coaster)

     Over the months, I've taken many notes about what I might write about on my blog, but none of them seem to fit when I get down to writing.  It's more about what's happening at the time and how I'm feeling when I sit down to write.
     So while April was the month of surprises, May was the month of the Roller Coaster, or La Montaña Rusa (literally, the Russian Mountain).
     We experienced our first high on La Montaña Rusa, early in May when we took our first trip to the States since we've been in PC.  We flew to Georgia where Chad's folks live.  They picked us up, treated us to good 'ole fashion Southern hospitality including black-eyed peas, collard greens and cornbread. The next day we drove onto Asheville together for Hannah's graduation.  Hannah now has her MS degree as a Family Nurse Practitioner.  Since her graduation, she has not only passed her licensing exam, but also was offered a job at what she describes as her "Dream Job"!  It's at a Community Clinic, near Asheville, where she will get to serve the Spanish speaking population, as well as all others.  She's quite excited!

Ken and Alice Romano, Hannah, Chad and us      

   The rest of the family came the following week; thus the celebrations continued for Birthdays, beautiful Spring days, Summit Dog days, Lazy days on the river, opening of New Belgium Brewery, Biltmore Mansion tour, Bent Creek hikes and anything else we could think of to celebrate!

Noah and Allie in front of their Dream Home.  The Biltmore Mansion.

Inside a tunnel on the Biltmore grounds; just jumping 'cause we can

Floating on the French Broad, just 5 minutes from Hannah and Chad's house

Emilee only fell 3x from the Paddle Board!  Francis didn't fall at all.

Enjoying some of the fresh brews at New Belgium after a hard day on the river. Felt like we were back in the Fort!

Emilee and her Niece Dog, Summit

Outside time at Hannah and Chad's

We returned to our classes at the school, where I'm teaching 2nd graders Mindfulness activities, to strengthen their Corteza Prefrontal, or La Parte Intelligente (the smart part of the brain), by learning to calm themselves and pay attention better.  We have fun with Mindful Movement, listening and breathing activities.

All the while this has been going on, Francis had been suffering with significant joint pain for months and juggling work with waiting for appointments to see specialists.  After returning from Asheville, he was finally diagnosed w/ Polymyalgia Rheumatica (which Hannah first diagnosed correctly when we were there), and he was put on steroids with immediate relief.  So while he's feeling much better, he just learned from PC/US that he can't be "in country" while on steroids.  Also PC, wants to make sure that he has the correct diagnosis.  And for that reason, Francis will be returning early to the states, first to Wash.DC for an unknown period of time, before going back to Colorado.  So some of you will be seeing Francis sooner than later.  Our Close of Service conference is the 2nd week of July and I don't want to miss that.  We'll talk about how to wrap up projects and transition back to the US.  For most, it's about finding jobs or going to grad school, etc.  For me, it will be a time of saying goodbye and reflecting on the last 2 years.  If Peace Corps has taught us anything, it's how to be flexible, so we are managing just fine with the news.  Mostly we're grateful for Francis' newfound health!

On the extreme low part of the Roller Coaster this month, was the death of my nephew, Austin Pieper.  Austin was taken way too soon, by the illness called depression and anxiety.  He had another side though, and that was his smiling self that most of us knew better.  He  left his legacy in being the laughter in the room and a good friend to many.  Austin was a really good listener,  one in a million and will be sorely missed.  My brother Jim's family could use many healing thoughts and prayers.  

Our last huge event of the month, which was honestly very difficult to carry out after hearing the news of Austin's death and coming down with a cold, was hosting 12 boys from an Asheville school like we did last year.  We had found host families for all of them and organized and participated in 5 days worth of activities.  Here are some of the things we planned for them:

 Cole, and his host family, the Leandro's.

The boys helped in an elementary and high school English class for a day.

Along with the Girl and Boy Scouts of our town, the boys helped us with a ceramic mural at a park.  It's a project that I hope to finish before I leave.

They helped Adolfo with a Trapiche; making syrup and sweets from sugar cane. This is something I had been wanting to be part of since I was first introduced to Tapa de Dulce.  Adolfo was extremely generous to spend his entire day doing this, just for us!  He gave us each a chunk of the "tapa de caña" the hardened sugar, to make either syrup or "Aqua Sapo", a sweet drink, that's made w/ some of the sugar, hot water and a squeeze of fresh limon.

And during the day at Adolfo's, the boys got to play in the "barro".  What a day!

And finally, we tried to wear them out on a hike up to the cross. Guess who got worn out?

Hosting the boys from Asheville, fulfills PC Goal 3, sharing the culture of CR with others from our own country.  I was happy to be involved with it and it was a lot of fun, but given the timing, it was also draining and I'm very relieved it's over.

  I'm feeling like I want to get off the roller coaster.

 Like I said in my last blog, we have gotten used to surprises during our PC service, and surprises come in good and bad forms.  They are part of the Roller Coaster of Life that we are all on.

Bendiciones a todo. 

Blessings to all.

Where surprises lurk

Last weekend, as Francis and I spent a few days out of community (OOC in PC lingo; we get 3 days/month), I am struck by the similarities of what I experience on a daily basis in my PC service and what happens when I go on a walk through the jungle!

Since I've learned to become accustomed to things NOT happening the way I expect them to (remember my motto from 2013:" Expect the Unexpected"?); I'm finally beginning to accept "cualquier" (whatever) happens as coming with the territory.  I'm constantly reminded by just how long it takes to understand the impact that culture has on people and their behaviors.

 I love the trails of Hacienda Baru, a National Wildlife Refuge just north of Dominical on the Pacific Coast.  I was surprised to be able to watch 2  Black-Mandibled Toucans  right outside our bedroom window, high in a papaya tree.

photo courtesy of Mike Ryan

The next morning we identified a bird here at Hacienda Baru, that we hadn't seen before.

The grey-necked Woodrail   (photo internet)

 It was easier to identify than most, because it was walking around the grounds (they don't fly high) collecting goods for it's nest.  One of the fun parts about H. Baru, is how the wildlife practically comes to you while you sit and watch!
 On one hike, we were spooked by what looked and sounded like a wild pig, though later we found out it was a Collared Peccary.

Collared Peccary, common in these parts (photo internet)

 
Francis is the only person I know who gets excited when he sees "beautiful" spiders, beetles and even ants, though I'm sure there are more of his type around!

I have to admit, if you enlarge this, you'll see some  pretty cool pincers on this Medium horned Beetle.  

When Linda and Mike visited in early April, we found a flock of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, who stopped in a pond behind a restaurant where we had lunch in San Marcos, to give birth and hang out; so said the owner.  We sure didn't expect to see anything so surprising or beautiful, on the short walk around the grounds.

Note the bright orange beaks and feet.

The ducklings 

Linda Joyce,  Francis and Mike Ryan

The 4 of us enjoyed the many beautiful birds we saw when we visited San Geraldo de Dota, even though the restaurant owners put out plates of rice to feed the birds!  (so much for naturaleza).

The Acorn Carpintero  (Woodpecker), my new favorite bird!
photo complements of Mike

We saw the ducks right after we were guests of an English class, whom Francis and I have helped out on occasion.  The students gave us small group presentations on some of the products that Costa Rica is well known for.  They each had the opportunity to practice their English as we were "treated" to mini expositions on aguacates (avocados), café (no translation necessary), maiz (corn) and info on Tourism.

Have you ever tried Avocado Pancakes?  They are really tasty!
In the background here is guacamole.

Isaac, Karen and Carolina

Products made from fresh ground corn: tortillas and cornbread; yummy!
Presented by "Johanny" and Marylin.

We learned more about the growing and processing of coffee in Tarrazú
from Priscilla and Alejandro.

Flowering coffee matas; it's about as close to snow as they
are going to get in Costa Rica!

Speaking of coffee, we are actually drinking the coffee now, that we picked from Vilma's cafetal!  So the process goes like this: the bushes flower right after the harvest, which is now.  The granos (grains) continue to grow all through the rainy season.  At the end of the rainy season; the grains are picked when they are mature (red or yellow, depending on the variety).  

  

The coffee grains are dried (which we did) and then husked, toasted and ground, which Vilma had done elsewhere.

Coffee grains drying on burlap bags in the shade.  I stirred them daily for the first week,
but they dried for a month.

And here it is: what I have named "Alma de la Tierra" (soul of the earth).  It's a combination of "Alejandra's  and Vilma's coffee.

And voila! 
 We now get to drink and enjoy the coffee!  When made fuerte, (strong), my tastebuds consider this to be like the "Imperial" of coffees.  (Imperial Beer is made in Costa Rica and is like the Budweiser or Fat Tire of coffees).  Most coffees from this region have more of an IPA appeal, due to the high altitude and acidity of the soil that results in a more bitter taste.  

Vilma is very proud of the fact that her and her friend, Alejandra's coffee,  is organic.  Almost all big producers use chemicals.  But now Vilma is engaged in a project, to improve her coffee production, as well as other fruits and vegetables that she grows.  On her property, she has many banana trees, avocado, mandarin and lemon trees.  Last month we collected micro-organisms from the forest, which she decomposed in a process of crushing the rotting tree branches and adding molasses for fermentation.  After sitting like that for a month, she made a giant tea bag of the composted mixture, let it sit in water and more molasses for another 4 days, and then sprayed it on her plants.  Hopefully it will make a difference for her.  Here's the process:

Even when Vilma told us we were going to Alejandra's to look for "micro-organismos",
 we didn't know what we were getting into!

This is the giant 'tea bag' she made from the fermented, dried mixture, that is now soaking in molasses water.
Vilma will spray this on her plants.

More surprises from the forest:

This dried seed pod we found in the forest, is called
 "monkey's comb".  

It opens naturally into this star shape and makes for a great 'comb'!

Lest you think our time in Costa Rica is all fun and no work, here's where you'll find the connection:

 Like I said, I'm surprised when things happen like I think they "should" or "might".  The Director (principal) of the high school, gave us April 12th to do our training for the Mentor Guia program, which was both surprising in a good way and bad. This program is where we train 10th graders (there are 26 Mentors in all) to be mentors to 7th graders (there are 77 who want to participate).  The fact that we were given a full day for training like we asked for was great, but it was on a day, when none of our Tico counterparts would be able to attend.  There was a teacher's union meeting that day, and yes, they get to take off 2 days a year to attend union meetings.  They were planning a strike, which by the way, will be happening this week, Tuesday and Wednesday.

Our Día de Entrenamiento (Training Day), went off without a hitch ( which was more like a milagro(miracle) than a  surprise!)  The students said they had a great day (thanks to the help of 4 other PCVs!), and were excited to begin working with their 7th grade "Aprendices" (mentees).

They practiced good communication skills by taking their partner
on a "blind walk".

We met in small groups, discussed and practiced skills to be
a good leader and mentor.

And we ended with breathing exercises and ideas for recreation and decreasing stress.

Surprises lurk in all corners, and during a weekend in April when we went to San Jose to help with the Give-a-Book project, we were met by Carl Dickerson, the Rotary Club founder of the project, whom we have worked with before.  When we arrived, Carl said his next door neighbor had invited us to a Birthday Party, and treated us in Costa Rican fashion, to comida tipica (traditional CR food), drinks and music.  You would have thought we were the guests of honor that night, with all of the attention! Qué dicha! (What a joy) !  More about the Give-a-Book program in future blogs.

They sang folk songs to teach us about the good 'old days in Costa Rica!

Carl and Francis in the warehouse where we sorted and put together sets of books for schools where PCVs serve. 

The group of volunteers who worked at the warehouse that day.  Seeing the average age of a PCV, you can see why I have the nickname:  "Everybody's Mama"!  

April should be renamed el Mes de Sorpresas ( the Month of Surprises), because the more I write, the more surprises I realize we had!

Earlier in April, I received a message from my niece, Phaedra, which said that she and Jason were going to be in CR, for a week, could we manage to meet up with them.  And as it turns out, we could, and they treated us to a night in their condo in Quepos!  So we got to spend an unexpected evening and relaxing morning with them before heading off to Hacienda Baru, just down the road from them, where the birds, insects and other animals of the jungles of Costa Rica awaited us!

Jason, Phaedra, Francis and I

Since you never know where surprises lurk, I always take my camera with me when I go out.  On a recent walk up the street, I spotted this woman and her son!
I couldn't resist asking her if I could take her picture with her makeshift "sombrilla" (umbrella), which, she said was serving its purpose!

                                          What surprises lurk around the corner for you?